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2013 PCX150 Oil Change

Here is how to do an oil change on a 2013 Honda PCX150 
You will need 

- 800ml of 10w 30 (I use full synthetic valvoline/ 946ml container)
- A clean funnel (very helpful for replacing the oil)
- Rags or paper towels (to clean up oil drips etc)
- An oil pan for collecting the drained oil
- A oil storage container to save the old oil for recycling
- 8mm : 12mm : 17mm sockets
- A wrench for your sockets (extenders very helpful)
- A new crush washer (some reuse the old one several times)
- About an hour if you go slow and careful

Add some kind of protection to the ground to keep oil drips from soiling your work surface, garage floor, the environment, or wherever you happen to be doing this. I recommend doing it on a hard concrete floor because you need to prop the PCX up on its center stand for the oil change. I deployed a layer of old news paper for the ground protection.

The oil drain plug and oil fill plug on are the side where the exhaust pipe is routed back and away from the engine, on the right side of the PCX. I put a few pieces of duct-tape to keep the oil from draining down the front of the center stand, positioning it to drain into the oil pan.

Using your 12mm socket and wench, undo the oil drain plug after positioning your oil pan to collect the oil. The PCX only drains a small amount of oil, and the drain starts out strong but tapers off toward the end when the oil has a propensity to drip onto the center stand and then down to your floor. I use the duct-tape strips to channel the drips of oil into the collection pan.

This oil pan is old, and has been reused on many vehicles many times. An old metal gas can is used to save up the old oil, after which it is brought to the local autoparts store for recycling.

A clean funnel is nice to use because it keeps gunk from getting into your engine during the oil refill procedure, and with the caps it stays clean between oil changes. I use fully synthetic 10w 30 from Valvoline $10.25 for 1 quart or 946ml. I clean the drain plug with a paper towel before screwing it back into the drain port. I also use the paper towel to lightly wipe clean the drain port before screwing in the drain plug. Put the crush washer back on the drain plug and use the 12mm wrench setup to tighten it back into the drain port.

Moving the drain pan to the other (left) side you will find the oil filter. First use your 8mm wrench and socket to remove the brake line support, the cable has some slack from the front that you can use to move the obstruction out of the way. Next using your 17mm socket take the spring loaded oil filter setup out. I used duck tape to prevent any oil from getting on the ground or news paper. In this case, I let the PCX oil drain for about an hour, so barely any oil was left in the filter setup when I removed it. I cleaned it with soap and water and let it dry using warm air and sunlight.

The cleaned oil filter screen. It was lightly funky with some goo funk, but nothing serious at 1400mi. This is the second oil change I have performed. Some might wonder why I am changing the oil "early"; I did this because I ride Howard with Meg on the back at 50mph a lot, and the little 153cc engine gets worked. I bought a Honda because they are renowned for having super high quality highly reliable little engines. This liquid cooled 4 stroke almost perfectly square bore to stroke ratio single produces a modest 13HP, enough to move 620lbs of scooter, cargo and us at up to 65mph. Anyway, we do not get to ride Howard the PCX often, so the oil was old and stale, and I figured with the heat wave and summer use pattern, it would make good preventative measure sense to refresh the oil.

Using the clean funnel, add 800ml of oil back to the PCX. Clean off the oil dip stick and reinsert it without screwing it down and then pull it back out to check the oil level. Try not to overfill the PCX, a little less oil is better than too much. You can always add more oil if the oil level is too low, trying to take oil back out if you add to much is a complete redo of the oil change process.

Now Enjoy your Fuel Efficient Modern Honda Scooter :)

*** I used my android phone to build the base of this posting and then logged into a desktop for the text editing at higher speeds.


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  2. here is an alternate way to avoid the oil dripping on the center stand. i have my scooter garaged, so i can control the environment. instead of using center stand put a block at wheels to keep from rolling and then put some blocks or small scrap plywood pieces under kick stand to level bike. but first take out plug with bike on kickstand in regular fashion so you don't accidentally knock it over loosening the drain plug when the blocks are under the kickstand. this allows the oil to drain into the pan without soiling the floor. - debra

  3. Thanx Debra and Aaron for those handy tips. Does anyone recommend CVT fluid change by the owner, or is this strictly a dealer/shop task? What mileage should CVT fluid be changed?

    1. Changing the final drive gear oil / reduction gear oil (CVT fluid as you put it) is not difficult. You can do it yourself in less than 30 minutes start to finish, and that is without rushing. Ideally you'll be checking your belt, rollers and general CVT components/enclosure every 10,000 kilometres / 6,200 miles anyway, and while you have that enclosure opened up, it is a three minute job. Do a Youtube search or join the forum called

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