Required Parts and Tools
OW-20 oil 5 quarts jug from Costco 2 pack, fully synthetic
An oil filter cartridge replacement + new green O-ring
A Toyota Prius specific oil funnel with integrated vent tube, that I 3D printed in black PETG a few years ago using a file from Thingiverse.com, that makes adding oil to the tilted back towards dash near firewall oil filler port with black screw tight lid, easier to fill with clean fresh oil.
New aluminum M12 crush washer
Half inch drive 14mm deep socket black oil finished oxide & oiled
Special oil filter housing removal tool
Needle nose plyers that I restored in a past YouTube video, by cleaning and electroplating nickel.
12-inch forged crescent wrench,
Low-profile red screw off lid oil recovery tank with cap covered pour spout.
Old red 5 gal gasoline can used for oil recycling that has been used for such since 1985 by my late adoptive father Ken Schwarz, though it was originally used as a gasoline can during the 1970's.
3 nitril rubber gloves, thin, one always rips, so I replace it.
3 paper towels to wipe off oil drain hole and the oil filter housing port, and to wipe down the oil filter housing when replacing the O-ring and filter element, and to wipe oil off tools.
Oil Change Procedure
Old newspaper from the late Connie Schwarz, saved when she was alive, was laid down under the car, in case of oil leak or drip to keep the concrete driveway clean of used motor oil.
I put all the tools I would need under the front passenger side of the car, before climbing under it by wiggling on my back, to do the oil change procedure.
There was enough newspaper put down 2 layers deep to cover the entire area, with space for my tools
The oil capture jug large red screw top was removed, exposing the drain mesh capture zone, rolled into place under oil drain & filter area, near the front axles, towards the passenger side slightly off center.
I was careful to use the 14mm deep socket on the 1/2in torque wrench to loosen the drain bolt, then set the tool down, and used my glove covered hand with a paper towel in my other hand, to fully unscrew the oil drain plug, while capturing the old crush washer.
The oil surges out, dark in color, pouring rapidly into the catch jug, then the flow slows down over the next 10 minutes. I use the paper towel to wipe off the drain plug and my oil contaminated glove, then place the M12 aluminum crush washer on the drain bolt.
Once the oil done draining, I hand tighten the drain bolt back into the oil pan, then use the 14mm socket on the torque wrench set to 20 ft pounds, to tighten the drain bolt completely securely.
Next the needle nose plyers remove the steel safety clip on the metal part of the oil filter housing mounting area made of aluminum. The oil filter itself made of a tough black plastic and contains a pleated yellow colored filter element that is changed out with a new filter element.
A specific from Toyota aluminum oil filter removal tool applied to the black plastic oil filter housing, then the forged steel crescent wrench used to turn the adapter to loosen the housing.
Oil starts to leak out between the housing base and housing after its loosened to a certain point, so the oil catch pan is still in place to capture this used motor oil.
As the oil filter housing loosened more the oil starts pouring out even faster, as all the oil in the housing and housing base and filter element are released, perhaps a few hundred milliliters of used motor oil.
After the oil leaking stops, I fully unscrew the oil filter housing, then bang the special removal tool with a wrench to free it.
Removed the old green O-ring from the filter housing and replaced it with a new one.
The contaminated oil filter elements placed on the oil catch pans screen to drain the filter element of used motor oil.
A new filter inserted into the housing.
The oil filter housing with new O-ring and new filter element is hand tightened back into place.
The special oil filter removal tool then applied to the housing, so the crescent wrench used to tighten the oil filter housing until firmly snug.
The spring steel safety lock part then inserted with the needle nose plyers back into the oil filter housing base, which prevents the oil filter housing from unscrewing.
I take the oil collection pan out from under the car, and removal all my tools and the paper, then pop the hood of the car using the pull handle under the left of the steering wheel.
Unscrewed the black oil filler plug labeled with USE OW-20 in white lettering, placing it onto a small bit of clean paper towel sitting on top of the engine cover.
The special 3D printed PETG oil addition funnel inserted into the oil filler port.
4.4 quarts of the 5 quarts added of fully synthetic OW-20 oil.
The funnel removed, oil filler cap tightened back into place, then the yellow O-handle dipstick removed and wiped off with a bit of clean paper towel.
The oil dipstick then inserted and removed for inspection to confirm the oil level, almost full, just past the 2/3rds zone between the upper and lower levels etched into the metal strip dipstick near its end. Once the proper level confirmed, the oil dipstick reinstalled.
Put the old motor oil from the oil pan into the oil recycling jug, then put some clean newspaper in the back cargo area of the Prius and set the oil jug there. It also contained the used motor oil from our 2020 Yamaha MT-03 that I changed yesterday.
I did the oil maintenance system reset by pressing and holding the kmph/mph button to the right of the steering wheel while the car fully on. Then pressing the start button no foot on break to enter on but not ready mode, the dash displays an Oil Maintenance Reset with Progress Bar that lights from left to right until the reset completed.
Drove the used motor oil to our closest Autoparts store, where the only employee offered to empty the jug for me, as I signed the paperwork on a clipboard she handed me at the front counter.
I came home and put away all the tools and am ready for another oil change in 3000-5000 miles or whenever the dash computer says it.
All said that took just over an hour, including the recycling,
The oil was cheap, as was the filter, crush washer, rubber gloves, paper towel and used newspaper.
I have been changing motor oil in different power equipment machines, cars, vehicles, since 1991 when my adoptive father showed me how and let me use his tools.
Thats hundreds of oil changes. For less than $30, vs over $100 to pay someone else, I can only imagine that this has saved more than ten thousand dollars during my lifetime so far.
Extension & Commentary
Taking college chemistry, you are required to do a pre-lab before doing experiments, so that you work out ahead of time, what reagents or ingredients are needed, while tools or equipment are required, and the step by step procedure like a recipe, of exactly how you are going to use each reagent in which tool and with what method, to produce the required reactions for the experiment.
When baking a recipe at home, not analog sensory experience cooking with on the seat adjustments of ingredients, spices, seasoning, sauces, to taste, tested with a clean spoon as you go, baking is a science, with precise amounts of specific ingredients used in specific ways with specific tools, at specific temperatures, using specific methods, to achieve a repeatable outcome, so those really delicious holiday cookies you make and bake from scratch tastes just as good this year as the do when you make then in 5 years using the same recipe, tools, methods and ingredients.
Any DIY project involves planning, collecting the parts, tools, materials, working the methods, since there are usually multiple ways of achieving a similar output in electronics or cooking, fixing or repairing things, especially if you use hacking or upgrading or improving using what you know to make a product better than when it was new.
Sometimes DIY used to make something at a lower price that what is commercially available to buy. Some people with metal lathe skills and the required tools are able to home make a turbojet engine, the blades, shafts, bearings, oil connections, oil pump, fuel pump, cooling, stators, combustor, all the parts in a small hobby size turbojet, since buying a premade one costs more than $5000, it's possible to make one for under $1000 or 5X less, though you're going to need to buy a computer controller and some premade parts to actually get the turbojet startup sequence happening, warming it up properly, cooling it down properly, fueling it at the right level and similar, it's a deep dive project for people with advanced DIY skills and knowledge, not a beginner friendly DIY project for anyone to try since it requires expensive special tooling and advanced knowledge of many STEM topics.
No comments:
Post a Comment